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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:16 pm 
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Walnut
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Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:33 pm
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First name: Justin
Last Name: Kopaz
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Country: usa
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Hello, to all, I am a new member to the forum. I would like to build a curved bass body, ie. early spector basses. I do not have access to CNC, I have basic tools. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to tackle this idea? I am not trying to copy a Spector or Warwick body shape, but the curved body contour. Thanks, Justin


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 11:36 am 
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Koa
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Justin,

It all depends on what you want to do, and what you have.

I contour all my basses - heavily rolled edges on top, and at least a chest carve on the back. I accomplish this with an orbital sander, a flat automotove sanding pad and 40 grit paper chucked in a hand drill, and sometimes a 3 inch drum sander chucked in my benchtop drill press...I believe with these tools, you can do just about any carve you want. I use the same stuff to do my electrics - which are a little more complicated.

Sometimes, to get started, I use a 3/8" roundover bit in a Colt router.

Just have a plan on what wood you want to take away, and what wood you want to leave :)


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:24 pm 
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Koa
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Rasp file would be about the easiest and cheapest tool to use. Maybe a gouge chisle to start with.

From there...just about anything from sanding disks~grinders / irons / routers / electric hand held jointer, right on up to a table saw but you better be really good with table saw skills to use that approach.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:57 pm 
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Walnut
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Thanks for the info. I think that I am unclear as to what I want to accomplish. If you look at the orignal Spectors and some of the neck thru, the top is convex while the back is concave. They are pretty much the same width throughout the body. It looks as though the body is bent (I realize that it is not bend, but carved). So I am trying to figure out how to carve the back concave and front convex.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 8:43 pm 
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Koa
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On those basses the wings are actually glued at an angle, then everything is smoothed over.

You could achieve the same thing by starting with a slightly thicker body, then carving. My favorite is a 36-grit flapper disc on an angle grinder!! wow7-eyes

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:09 pm 
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Koa
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JAndrew wrote:
Thanks for the info. I think that I am unclear as to what I want to accomplish. So I am trying to figure out how to carve the back concave and front convex.



Your welcome.

Ummm I don't think its being unclear as to what you wanna accomplish as much as it is the know how of how to actualy do it, as it matters little ~ convex, concaved or even compounded ~ all the tools suggested so far will do the job.

Now you use the word "carve"...ok...so block up you blank on a solid work bench, get a shallow gouge and mallet and go at it. Simple. If you used the word "shape" well then block it up and use the sanding grinding tools suggested. If you used the word
"tool" then your basicly refering to moving blades...routers, shapers ect.

Perhaps a basic wood working course or luthiers school might help. We all gotta start somewheres.

Since your doing a solid body, your gonna be doing some routing out of body cavities, so you may wanna use the router approach to shapeing the bodoes surfaces and edges.


Good luck.


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Padma~

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 12:29 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Sounds like an arch-top/violin method would work.

Carve the top, then use a drill press with a depth stop to get the matching arch on the other side. Really not explained very well...go to the latter half of this page for a better description of what I am talking about. http://osnesviolins.com/7.Arching%20Top%20&%20Back.htm

:-)

-Matthew


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